from the pages of EGM and Expert Gamer

Driving Techniques & Vehicle Tips

"Esses"
The shortest distance between two points is a straight line. Nowhere is that more true than whennavigating "Ess" turns in GT3. Forget everything we just taught you, because none of it applies to a set of these curves. Instead, try to see where you'll be exiting the series of turns, and then aim straight for it. It takes some practice, since some turns are tighter than others are, but basically you want to just hit the apex of each curve, turning the wheel as little as possible in the process. Check out the diagram to see what we mean.

Upgrading 101
Upgrading the right parts normally turns the most worthless crap you buy or win into a lean, mean racin' machine that'll make your competitors quiver every time you gun the engine. You have to be willing to spend some green on your chariot, but in the long run you'll find you can win almost any race you qualify for in a fully souped-up vehicle.

Probably the first thing you should spend your credits on is a brand new ROM chip. These are generally inexpensive, and you'll find the moderate horsepower boost they provide ofttimes makes the difference between a sixth place finish and a top three showing.

The next thing on the list should be a full racing exhaust. Although it's a tad more expensive than a ROM chip, the horsepower boost is usually pretty big.

Next, you should concentrate on acceleration. Buy the best transmission and parts you can, as well as some better brakes. Be warned, if you buy the performance tranny the computer will automatically set up your gear ratio for fast acceleration but very low top speed. You'll notice it when you red-line the tach in sixth gear even though you've got power to spare. What you need to do it go into the settings screen before the race and set the ratios at the 2/3 mark (check image). Gearheads might want to mess with each individual gear a little, but generally this is the best setting.

Finally, buy some tires. Within the race tire menu you have a lot of choices. Early in the game buy the softest compound you can, as it affords the most grip out on the track. However, when you start entering races where tire wear becomes a factor, switch to a harder compound; otherwise you'll find your tires giving out after only a couple laps, and that ain't good.

Choose Your Weapons
4WD: That's four-wheel drive to you and me. The engine is in the front of the car and the power is distributed to all four wheels. That makes this the most stable ride you're likely to find in a turn. The front tires tend to wear a little faster than the rears in a 4WD vehicle since they have to deal with both wheel spin and steering.

FR: Engine is in the front, power to the rear wheels. That means all your front tires are good for is steering. You'll find that the rear tires wear a little faster on one of these cars thanks to all the wheel spin you get in the turns. You'll also notice that If you stomp on the gas while you're cutting the front wheels, the rear end will tend to swing around. Remembering weight transfer in braking and accelerating is paramount in an FF car.

FF: Engine in the front, power to the front wheels. Basically, your front tires will be dragging the rest of the car around with you. You'll find it's much harder to spin out in an FF vehicle, and much easier to motor out of the turns. However, the front end will have a tendency to "push" to the outside of any turn if you brake too late.

MR: Mid-engine, power to the rear wheels. An MR car behaves a lot like an FR one. Of course, with all the extra weight near the back of the car you get much better bite, and it's a lot easier to slide the rear out if you get on the gas too early in a turn. These cars have a tendency for more horsepower, too.

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